On the western coast of Gujarat, north of Somnath, on the way to Veraval lies the famous Krishna temple called Balka Teerth.

Balka Teerth.

Known as the place where Bhagvan Sri Krishna was struck by the arrow, which led to his leaving the avatar, it is considered a very holy place.

Balka Teerth Krishna temple

According to Puranas, after the Mahabharata war Krishna goes to pay his respects to Gandhari, the mother of the Kauravas. A heartbroken Gandhari, grieving the death of her 100 sons, feels that Krishna  could have stopped the war had he so desired, but didn’t stop the carnage, thereby depriving her of her children. She curses Krishna that just as her entire family was wiped out, the entire clan of Krishna, the Yadavas would also be destroyed. Sri Krishna humbly accepts her curse knowing that the time to give up this avatar was near.

A few years later fights break out between the Yadavas and they start killing one another. Balarama goes into a cave and gives up his body. Krishna sits under a tree and starts meditating. A hunter by the name of Jara comes to that area and seeing the movement of Krishna’s toe, mistakes it to be a deer and shoots an arrow which strikes Krishna. When he goes nearby and realises that he had shot Krishna, he begs forgiveness to which Krishna replies that in the Treta Yuga Jara was Vali and Rama killed him. It is for this reason that in Dwapara Yuga Jara shot Krishna, thereby completing the circle. Then Krishna leaves his human body and goes back to Vaikunta.

Jara asking Sri Krishna’s forgiveness, the murtis in the garbagriha.

Reading the stories of Sri Krishna from childhood, it is thrilling to realise that we have come to the place where the major events of Srimad Bhagavatam took place. After Sri Krishna gave up his avatar, Dwapara Yuga was completed and Kaliyuga started. There is a very peaceful aura around that area. The whole of Somnath and Veraval area have a divine aura.

The most convenient way to reach Somnath and Veraval is by train.

In the city of Porbandar, in Gujarat, lies the ancestral home of the Gandhis where Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi was born on 2nd October 1869.

Entrance of Kirti Mandir.

Kirti Mandir is a memorial building built in honour of Mahatma Gandhi. It as adjacent to the original house of the Gandhis, where Gandhiji was born. A 3 storied Haveli, which was bought by the Gandhi family sometime in the 17th century is an old architechture building with green windows and doorways.

Original house of the Gandhi family.

The memorial building to Gandhiji was planned by the people of Porbandar. Before the foundation stone was laid for the Kirti Mandir, Nanji Kalidas Mehta, a famous industrialist took up the responsibility of the memorial and with his own money, purchased the ancestral home from the family of Gandhis who were still living there. He bought land adjacent to the ancestral home and laid the foundation stone for Kirti Mandir in 1947.

By the time the building was completed in 1950, Gandhiji was no more. Sardar Vallabh Bhai Patel on 27th May 1950, declared the memorial open for the public. Then the building was handed over to the Government of India.

Library at Kirti Mandir

Big Photographs of Kasturba Gandhi and M K Gandhi

Kirti Mandir is a major tourist attraction in Porbandar. Tourists both Indian and International visit Kirti Mandir to see the place where the Mahatma was born.

The city of Porbandar is a coastal harbour city in Gujarat. It is well known for being the birthplace of Sudama and Mahatma Gandhi.

Sudamapuri is a temple built in the birthplace of Sudama.

While temples are always built for gods, this is a temple built for a childhood friend and devotee of Sri Krishna. This is the place where Sudama resided when he lived. Later a temple was constructed and we can see Sudama, his wife Susheela, Sri krishna and Rukmini in the sanctum.

The present temple is built in 1902.

A statue depicting the childhood friendship of Krishna and Sudama.

Krishna and Sudama were childhood friends studying in the same gurukul. Later Sudama returns to his home in Porbandar and Krishna goes to Dwaraka. Sudama was a poor brahmin. One day, his wife Susheela asks him to go to Krishna and ask for his help to rid them of poverty. Sudama feels shy to ask help from Krishna, but on his wife’s insistence agrees to go. Since he could not go empty handed to see a friend, and since he was extremely poor, he ties some beaten rice into a cloth bag and goes to visit Krishna. 

Seeing his childhood friend, Krishna embraces him warmly, washes his feet and Rukmini also sees to his comfort. Krishna talks about their childhood and then asks Sudama if he needed anything. Sudama, after seeing the reception by Krishna, feels shy and goes back home without asking for anything. When he reaches home, he is surprised to see a big house in place of his small hut and lots of riches in his house.  He thanks Krishna in his heart. 

This is the place where Sudama had his house. Sudama is also known as Kuchela in South India. This temple is very important for the devotees of Lord Krishna.

Jambavan’s cave is located in the Ranavav Taluka, 15 km from Porbandar city, in the state of Gujarat.

Jambavan’s cave is in a beautiful, serene place, with hills on one side and no settlements around. This is the place where the fight between Jambavan and Sri Krishna is believed to have taken place. Jambavan is an eternal devotee of Lord Vishnu.

Compound of Jambavan’s cave which also has 2 small temples.

According to the Vishnu Purana, in the Dwapara yuga, a king named Satrajit with the blessings of Surya Dev (the Sun god) receives a valuable jewel called the Syamantaka Mani. The Syamantaka mani used to shine with the brightness of the sun and it used to produce gold everyday. One day Krishna asks Satrajit to give the jewel to the King of the land, King Ugrasena. Satrajit refuses to do so. 

One day Prasena, the brother of Satrajit wears the jewel and goes to the forest to hunt. A lion kills him and takes the jewel. Jambavan, the bear king, sees the lion and kills it. He takes the jewel home  to his cave and gives it to his small son to play. Meanwhile Satrajit blames Krishna for the disappearance of his brother and accuses Krishna of killing Prasena for the jewel. Krishna goes in search of the jewel and reaches the cave of Jambavan. He sees the jewel that is in the hands of the son of Jambavan and tries to take it. An enraged Jambavan fights with Krishna for 28 days. Then he recognises Krishna as his Lord Rama in the Treta yuga. He asks for forgiveness and hands over the jewel and also asks Krishna to accept his daughter Jambavati as his wife. Accepting both, Krishna returns to Dwaraka with the Syamantaka mani and Jambavati. 

Satrajit, after hearing what had happened is full of remorse for accusing Krishna unfairly. He asks forgiveness and asks Krishna to take his daughter Satyabhama  as his wife.

Way to go inside the cave

Narrow path and steps to go inside.

Going inside the underground cave is a little adventurous. Normally it seems there are lights placed onto the steps and inside the cave too. But there was a power cut when we had gone so it was pitch dark on the steps. Had to shine our cellphone torches to see even one step below us.

Finally reached inside the cave. The cave is spacious enough that we do not have to bend, but can walk inside without bending.

There are many shivalingas formed naturally inside the cave.

Natural light coming from the ground level through a hole.

There are two tunnels from inside the cave. While one goes to Dwaraka, the other is said to go to Junagadh. This cave is looked after by the ASI.

Coming out, we enjoyed the serene atmosphere and beauty of the place for some time and then proceeded to our next destination.

Korukonda is a village in the Korukonda mandal of East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh. Here lies the divine temple of Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy. There are two temples. One is at the foot of the hill and one is on top of the hill.

The temple at the foot of the hill is old but not ancient. The pillars of the temple signify its age. There is a mandapam in the Prakaram. It has been cemented around parts of the pillar. Besides this prakaram lies the way to climb the hill.

At the bottom is a Peetam with garuda carved on the side and feet on top. Because it has been worshipped with flowers, the padalu (feet) cannot be seen in the picture.

Steps to the temple on the hill.

Then starts the difficult part. There are 620 steps. The steps are small and the incline is steep. But thankfully there are one or two shaded areas in between to take rest and rods to take hold of. Otherwise the climb and descent would be much more difficult. Taking time to climb, finally seeing the Gopuram was a welcome sight.

The last leg of the steps has a shaded area to sit and where Anjaneya Swamy is seen praying with bhakti. The last few steps to the gopuram and dwaaram.

Entering the Prakaram we see the Dwajastambham and the temple. There is a mandapam to the left with carved pillars and carvings at the lower part of the mandapam. There is also an inscription. To the right there is another small temple where Alwars are there inside.

This temple is 700 years old built during the Reddi dynasty’s rule.

What is different about this temple is that we see the sculpture in front of you but no dwaaram to the garbagriha. To enter the temple we have to enter it from back.

Statue of the Reddi ruler.

While the entrance chamber has pillars with the Reddi rulers sculpted and Dwarapalas beside the door, the Deva inside is unique. A Swayambhu one foot tall miniature temple with Narsimha Deva inside it and Lakshmi ma on his lap is the main Murti. The miniature temple has Dwarapalas also carved on it. Unless the pujari shows the deepam towards the miniature temple, we cannot make out Deva inside. Besides the Swayambhu is another bigger Murti of Deva which was installed for the devotees.

Coming out we turn towards the mandapam around the garbagriha. It is this part that is so beautiful. It is entirely sculpted with images of the Dasavataras, Ramayana and partly depicts the rulers.

Ravana in disguise asking Sita Devi for food and then abducting her in his true form.

Vali, Sugreva fight and killing of Vali.

The vanaras carrying the stones to build the Ramasetu (bridge to Lanka)

Rama Ravana War

The sculpture in four rows is a treat to see. Though I couldn’t decipher a few, felt so happy seeing them. This was the reason I wanted to visit this temple though I was daunted at the thought of climbing all those steps. Sat there in the mandapam and enjoyed some serene time there.

Finally the walk down after having a wonderful darshan and seeing the sculpture. There are a lot of monkeys there on the steps, so it is better to move with crowds.

Korukonda is 20 km from Rajahmundry, an important city in East Godavari district.

Pithapuram is a town in the East Godavari District of Andhra Pradesh. Pithapuram is known to be one of the oldest and sacred place in India. It has historical and religious importance. The history of the region dates back to 5th century when it was ruled by the Vishnukundina dynasty. It was later ruled by the Chalukyas.

Pithapuram is an important religious and spiritual town. It is where one of the Ashtadasha Shakti Peeta, one of the Trigaya and one of the Pancha Madhava temples are located. It also has the Sripada Sri Vallabha temple who is believed to have been the incarnation of Lord Dattatreya.

Pithapuram is the Shakti Peeta where Sati devi’s seat fell. Here she is worshipped as Puruhutika Devi. This is one of the Ashtadasha (18 major) Shakti Peetas of Sati Devi.

Construction in the Pushkarini depicting Gayasura with Vishnu at his head, Brahma at his navel and Shiva at his feet.

Pithapuram is also known as Paadagaya. Here Lord Shiva is worshipped as Kukkuteshwara Swamy.  The Purana of Paadagaya is as follows.

Gayasura was the son of Tripurasura who was a great devotee of Lord Vishnu. Gayasura worshipped Vishnu and was granted a boon by Lord Vishnu that he would die only by the Trimurtis (Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva). Getting emboldened by the boon, Gayasura committed atrocities against all the Gods and humans. Finally the Trimurtis decide that Gayasura should be punished and so they come to him disguised as Brahmins. They tell him that they want to perform yagna on a pure body for seven days, to bring rains to the parched lands. They tell him that they want to do yagna on his body and that until the yagna is over he has to lie down and cannot get up. if he gets up before the seven days are over he will die. Gayasura agrees and increases his body and his head reached Gaya (in present day Bihar), his abdomen reached Jajpur (in present day Orissa) and his feet reach Pithapuram (Andhra Pradesh). The Yagna starts and after six days are over, before the seventh day Shiva crowed like a cock to trick Gayasura. Gayasura assuming that the seven days are over moves his body. The brahmins tell him that since he has moved before the seven days and yagna are over, he has to die. Gayasura realises that they are the Trimurtis and gladly gives up his life. Gaya, where his head was, is known as Sirogaya (head gaya) and a Vishnu temple was built. Jajpur is called Naabigaya (navel gaya) and a Brahma temple was built and Pithapuram was called Paadagaya (feet gaya) where the Shiva temple is built. Lord Shiva is known as Kukkuteshwara swamy here as he crowed like a cock.

Kunti Madhava Temple                              Image of Madhava Swamy.

Kunti Madhava Swamy temple is one of the Pancha Madhava temples. The other four Madhava temples being – Bindu Madhava of Varanasi, Venu Madhava of Prayaga, Sethu Madhava of Rameshwaram and Sundara Madhava of Tiruvananthapuram.

Our fourth day in Bhutan was for seeing the sights of Paro. After our breakfast, we started on our trip.

First we went to Kyichu Lhakhang. It is the oldest temple in Bhutan. Built in the 7th century, later two more parts of the temple were added at different centuries.

Kyichu Lhakhang

Inner courtyard and the two orange trees that bear fruit throughout the year.

Prayer wheels

We went into the part of the temple that is built in the 7th century. Prayers and rituals were going on at that time. We silently went inside, after seeing all that we could, we came out silently and went into the second part of the temple which was built later. It again had huge statues of Sakyamuni, Guru Rinpoche and Red Kurukulla (Red coloured Goddess of Knowledge and enchantment).

All around the temple, the walls have prayer wheels. Behind the temple this hall has huge prayer wheels. It is beautiful.

After the visit to Kyichu Lhakhang, we went to the National Museum of Bhutan. Here everything of Bhutan, their dances, masks, vessels, animals and  birds are showcased. It is a small museum. Important thing about Bhutan is that they give full importance to what is theirs. Their culture, heritage everything. They do not show any other countries treasures. So tourists will get to know everything about Bhutan when they visit.

Our guide asked us if we would like to see Rinpung Dzong. When we asked if it has anything that is not covered in the previous Dzongs, he said it was just the same so we decided not to go inside.

Rinpung Dzong

We then went to the airport view point and took pictures. Seeing such a small runway was so different.

After that we went and shopped for some time and went back to our resort. We were flying back the next day morning so we just relaxed and had dinner.

The next day morning our flight was at 10.30 am so we had to be in the airport by 8.30 am. We had an early breakfast and started to the airport. At the airport the formalities hardly took much time.

Bookstore at the airport. Mostly books about Buddhism.

Boarded the flight remembering all the beautiful sights of this peaceful country.

Goodbye Bhutan.

On day 3 we were going to Punakha. Since we had to cover a large distance, we had an early breakfast. The distance from Thimpu to Punakha is 85 Km, which would take two and a half hours time.

After starting from Thimpu, we first halted at Dochu la pass. Dochula pass is a mountain pass located at an elevation of 10,300 feet. Here 108 memorial chortens or stupas have been built to remember 108 Bhutanese soldiers who laid down their life in 2003, while fighting terrorists who were attacking India, while hiding in Bhutan. These Chortens are known as the “Druk Wangyal Chortens”.

Druk Wangyal Chortens

Mountain views from the chortens. In September it is cloudy and foggy and so we couldn’t see the Himalayan ranges clearly. But the view was so beautiful.

Druk Wangyel Lhakhang (Monastery)

After enjoying the views and taking pictures we proceeded to Punakha. Passing through lovely country side, we reached the Punakha Dzong.

Punakha Dzong is a very beautiful Dzong. Located at the confluence of the Pho Chu (male) and Mo Chu (female) rivers. After the confluence of these two rivers, the main river called Sankosh river or Puna Tsang Chu flows and finally meets the Brahmaputra river in India.

Punakha Dzong is the second oldest and second largest Dzong of Bhutan. The Dzong was first started in 1639 and a spire was built in 1676. Further additions were made during the period 1744 to 1763. It is the administrative center for Punakha valley. We have to cross a bridge to go into the Dzong.

The Dzong has huge courtyards which hold various offices and administrative sections. After passing them, we go to the area where the temple is.

Huge Prayer wheel at the entrance.

The actual temple which holds huge statues of Sakyamuni (Buddha), Guru Rinpoche (Guru Padmasambhava) and Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal (Bearded Lama – Unifier of Bhutan). It is so beautiful to look at and the paintings on the walls tell the story of Buddha or Sakyamuni as he is called. All the buildings in the Dzong are very beautiful. The architecture is so pleasing and we feel like spending more time there soaking in the peaceful atmosphere.

After coming out of the Dzong, we went to the suspension bridge which was nearby.

Suspension bridge.

After taking some pictures, we halted for lunch and then continued back to Thimpu. At Thimpu we collected our luggage from the hotel and proceeded to Paro.  Thimpu to Paro is 51 km and takes one and a half hour to go.

When we reached Paro, just then the Rinpung Dzong was lighted up and we stopped our van to take pictures.

After taking pictures, we proceeded to the Tenzinling resort where we were going to stay for two nights.

The Tenzinling Resort is good, staff were ok, food was ok and they were strict about the timings that they would serve food only if we went before 9 o clock. Basically everyone in Bhutan retires for the night a bit early.

Had our dinner and retired for the night.

The next day morning we woke up to drizzling skies. After a sumptuous complimentary breakfast, we started on our sightseeing for the second day. Before I go ahead, I would like to mention that the food they produce is organic. The honey there, is simply awesome.

First we went to the National Memorial Chorten. We learnt that the ticket to go in was 300 rupees and then we would be allowed to just go around the Chorten and not inside it. So we chose not to go into the compound, instead took pictures from the road.

In the slight drizzle, we proceeded to the statue of Sakyamuni Buddha on the Kuensel Phodrang hill.

Shakyamuni Buddha is a 51.5 meter long bronze statue, plated with gold. The statue sits atop a meditation hall with another big statue of Buddha and many smaller statues in it. The construction started in 2006 and it was completed in 2015.

Stupa at the entrance

The place is so beautiful, you can have an uninterrupted view of the valley and it is also known as the Buddha View point. Though we got wet slightly in the drizzle, we didn’t have any regrets because due to the weather the views we had were amazing. Clouds covering the Mountains and the serene atmosphere of the place gave us so much happiness. Inside the meditation hall the work on the pillars is also beautiful. After sitting in the hall for sometime, we came out, took pictures and started back.

Next we were to go to the Changangkha Lhakhang, which was an important religious structure dating back to the 15th century. But some restoration work was ongoing, so we were not able to go there. Then we went to the Takin Zoo, but it was drizzling a lot by then and we didnt want to pay 300 rupees for a ticket in that weather where we would have lesser chance of sighting the animal. But Mr Ganesh took us to a point where we had a chance to see the Takins from an elevated area.

From there we went to a place where we could see the Trashi Chhoe Dzong from a distance. It is a Buddhist monastery and a fortress which houses the Throne room and offices of the king, the Secretariat and the Ministries of Home and Finance. It is out of bounds for visitors and we had a view from afar.

Trashi Chhoe Dzong

From there, we went to a place called Simply Bhutan. It is a place where the culture and way of living of the Bhutanese is showcased. The ticket is 300 rupees for the entrance and if you want to take a picture in the local dress, it is an extra 100 rupees. Paid for both and went inside. Was impressed at the way the whole tour was held. It is in such a small area, but with compactness they have showcased their way of living so well.

This is so similar to what our grandmothers used to grind pulses.

Dried up vegetables to sustain them in the winter months.

Enjoyed thoroughly at Simply Bhutan. There was a little sample of archery also at the end which entertained us a lot.

Overall enjoyed the second day in Bhutan.

In the month of August, I went to Bhutan with a few friends of mine. Starting from Kolkata, we took the Bhutan Airlines flight from Kolkata to Paro. As the flight was at 8.15 am, we reached the airport at 5.30 am and had to wait for 15 minutes before the Bhutan airline counter opened. After checking in our luggage and going through the security check, we had ample time to go through the Kolkata airport. Finally boarding started and our trip started. It is a short flight from Kolkata to Paro. Just 1 hour time. 15 minutes before we reached Paro, the announcement came to see the Mount Everest and K2 at a distance. Took a picture of the peak.

Seeing Bhutan from the flight, we were delighted to see the scenic beauty. Sparsely populated, green hills and lovely atmosphere. Landing in Bhutan, we took out our shades and wore them because the sun shines very brightly over there. The airport is small, quaint and beautiful.

Beautiful luggage belt showcasing their Dzongs

Immigration, so pretty to look at.

We can take sim cards for our phones if we have a need to keep in touch with home regularly. These can be taken at the airport. Coming out of the airport, we were met with our tour guide who after greeting us and loading the luggage on to the van, took us to Paro. Going beside the Paro river, which flows in pristine beauty, we started enjoying the surroundings. We were informed that no one is allowed to step into rivers and that the rivers are allowed to flow without any man made pollutants.

On the way to Paro we stopped at Chojum, to take photographs of the confluence of the two rivers of Bhutan, Thimpu Chu and Paro Chu.

In buddhist culture Dzongs or Stupas are built at the confluence of two rivers. In Hindu culture also we build temples at the confluence of two rivers. But the difference here being that while we consider the confluence auspiscious and holy, the Buddists build Dzongs to ward of negative energy. Here the three Stupas are of the Tibetian, Nepalese and Bhutanese models.

We then reached Thimpu and were taken to the Hotel Osel. It is a very nice hotel. While we were checking in, our guide Mr. Ganesh took our passports to get the visitors permit. With the stamping done at immigration, we can travel to Thimpu and Paro. But for Punakha, we have to take another visitors permit. We went to our rooms and freshened up. Then we were ready to start our tour. First we stopped for lunch and all of us wanted to enjoy Bhutanese food. While the non vegetarians took chicken and fish items, four of us are vegetarians. We ordered Red rice, Jeera rice, Ema Datshi (cheese and chilli curry) and Khewa Datshi (potato and cheese curry). The food was really good and we enjoyed our first meal in Bhutan. In Bhutan, once we order, then they start preparing the food, so it might take some time but you can be assured that the food will be fresh.

Then our sightseeing started. First we went to the Zorig Chusam which is the painting school, where students undergo a 6 year training course in Bhutan’s 13 tradional arts and crafts.

The ticket to go in is 100 rupees. The currency of Bhutan is Ngultrum. It is equivalent to Indian rupees in value and is widely accepted there. Hence we didn’t have to exchange our currency. The only dissatisfaction here was that there was nobody to explain what was happening. We just went in, took a look around and came out. It would have been good if there was somebody to explain all that was there in the painting school.

Next we went to The National Library. It has a collection of priceless Buddhist books and also has a 5*7 feet book, which is known to be the worlds largest published book.

National library

After seeing the National library we went to Royal Textile Academy of Bhutan and from there went to shop for little mementos.

After the shopping, we were very tired and went back to our Hotel. We had arranged to have dinner at the hotels we were to stay, so we relaxed for a couple of hours and came down to have dinner. As it was off season, there were hardly any guests in the hotel and we enjoyed having the restaurant to ourselves.

The food was good, we had wifi and the service was excellent at Osel. With that we completed day 1 of our trip.