Hanumakonda and Warangal are like twin cities, situated side by side. Hanumakonda was the capital of the Kakatiya dynasty before they shifted the capital to Warangal. In Hanumakonda we can see the famous Rudreshwara Temple, also famously known as the 1000 pillar temple, because it is made with 1000 pillars.

The thousand pillar temple was built during the reign of Rudra Deva of the Kakatiya dynasty in 1163 CE in the style of later Chalukyan and early Kakatiyan Architechture.

The temple measures over 31*25 m and stands on a platform which is one meter above the ground. The temple is called 1000 pillar temple because of the pillars used for the temple. The entire wall of the temple is made up of pillars which are joined.

It consists of three shrines to Shiva, Vishnu and Surya on three sides of the Rangamandapam. While Rudreshwara was having Nitya Pooja and was well illuminated, I am not too sure about Vishnu and Surya temples. One was locked, the other not too visible because of low lighting.

Black stone dwaram (doorway) to the garbagriha is richly sculpted. Photography is not allowed inside. But I requested the pujari to let me capture just the sculpture, because by then I was very sad seeing a lot of destruction in the Warangal fort and partly here too. Maybe he saw the love that I had for the art and sculpture, he allowed me to take pictures. I did not abuse his trust by taking pictures of Deva. Grateful that I was able to record this beauty.

Coming to the massive Nandi in front of the temple, it is on an elevated plain pavilion. Richly ornamented it must have been glorious previously. Mark of invaders is very visible. Both ears are cut of, part of tail and left leg are broken. It breaks the heart to see such damage.

A pillared Mandapam being reconstructed by the ASI. Because work is going on, couldn’t go there.

Thus ended the visit to another great ancient temple.

Warangal city is the district headquarters of Warangal Urban district of Telangana state. It is a city steeped with history. Previously known as Orugallu or Ekashila nagaram, which means a ‘single stone’ in telugu, it got its name by the huge boulder that lay in the Warangal fort. It was the capital city of the Kakatiya dynasty when they shifted their capital from Hanumakonda. Warangal is a three hour drive from Hyderabad and a must visit place for history and culture enthusiasts.

When I had planned a trip to Warangal, searching for places to see, I saw that Warangal fort is an important sightseeing place. So I was waiting to see a ruined fort. But when I went to the place called Warangal fort, I realised that it was that section of the fort where previously a Swayambhu Shivalayam existed and now had relics which were excavated.

The Kakatiya thoranams

On four sides we can see the famous Kakatiya thoranams, one of which we can see in above picture. Smaller thoranams are also there. The Kakatiya Thoranam has been included in the emblem of the state of Telangana.

This area is the place where a Swayambhu Shivalay existed. The relics that have been excavated are displayed here.

The beautiful sculpture by the Kakatiyas is on display, so is the destruction wrought upon them by the barbaric invaders. The Kakatiya rulers must have been great patrons of art and culture. Throughout Warangal, in the sculpture on the temples we can see dancers and musicians.

Even animals were not spared. Be it horses, elephants or lions. Their legs and heads were broken.

A huge Kirtimukha gives us an idea of the scale of the temple. It must have been outstanding and majestic.

A mandapam with Nandi. Again the sculpture has been destroyed.

In such a scenario, any sculpture without destruction gives us great joy.

This partly broken elephant was used by children as a showpiece in a park and they were climbing it for pictures. I couldn’t keep quiet so told the teacher who came with them to not allow them to climb on top but to take pictures beside it and to not spoil our heritage.

Destruction and beauty side by side fills us with sorrow.

But we have to appreciate the talent of the sculptors of the Kakatiya period.

Almost 80 kms from Hyderabad lies the village of Kolanupaka in Aler mandal of Nalgonda district. The village is a must visit for heritage enthusiasts because we can visit an ancient Shiva and Jain temple.

Sri Someshwara temple

           

   

Ammapalli is a village situated 30 kms from Hyderabad and 5 Kms from Shamshabad. In this small village lies the ancient Sri Ramachandra temple.

Built during the time of the Kalyani Chalukyas, it is between 800 to 900 years old. Though there are no stone inscriptions as to the date of the construction of the temple, the history has been told through generations and thus we know of its age. This temple has been used for many movie shootings and is believed to bring the movie success at the box office.

The first look

When we approach the temple, we come towards the west side of it. We can see a Mandapam adjoining the prakara (compound wall). Going a little further, to the left we come across the temple tank or Pushkarini.

Pushkarini.

Though it doesn’t have water in it now, we cannot fail to appreciate the beauty of it. It has a Prakara mandapam on 3 sides. The tank is surrounded by trees making the look so beautiful.

When we turn towards the temple, we can admire the 5 tiered Gopuram which is 90 feet high.

Gopuram

The Gopuram which is 5 tiered surprisingly has a Rajasthani style of architechture in its first tier. There is a carving of Lord Vishnu on his Sheshtalpa on top of the Doorway. Once we enter the temple prakara (compound) we can see the Prakara mandapam (compound corridor) all around.

Though there are some trees in the compound, what catches our eyes is the tree to the left that is said to be more than 300 years old and which has many bundles tied to it.

These bundles are tied when a devotees prays for a specific wish and which will be removed when the wish is fulfilled.

Vimana on the Garbagriha.

A mandapam which has a stone Kurma (tortoise)

Going into the antarala, we go for the darshan of Lord Sri Rama, Sita Devi and Lakshmana. This place is believed to be a place where the three of them took rest during their aranyavasa (exile) hence only the 3 three murtis are there. As it was before the time they met Hanuman, his murti is not alongside Rama, Sita and Lakshmana. Here the Lord holds an arrow in his right hand and hence is called Kodanda Rama swamy. The murtis are made from ekasila (single stone) and are unique because they are carved with the makara toranam. While in all temples we have makara toranam above the deities in brass or silver, here they are carved within the same stone along with the murti. The Makara toranam of Lord Rama is unique because it has the dasavataras carved on it. It is said that once the devotees come for the darshan and ask anything with devotion, Sri Kodanda Rama fulfills it and the devotees come again to thank the lord.

There are steps to go to the top of the prakara mandapam.

We can see bench like structures on top which will enable people to sit and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.

View of the temple from the top of the prakara mandapam.

Coming out we can see another mandapam where previously marriages and the brahmotsavams of Rama took place.

One movie whose picturization revolves around this temple is Murari. The story is woven around this temple and extensively shot here. Though it is a Rama temple, in the movie they showed it as a goddess temple. The movie was a huge hit and I am fond of it. Always I thought the temple shown in the movie was in a far off place,  I never imagined that it was so close to Hyderabad.

Outside there is an old Shiva temple and a smaller temple for Hanuman.

Was happy with the visit as I was able to enjoy the peaceful aura of the temple, have darshan of Deva and enjoy seeing the temple where the movie’s shooting took place.